A Ryokan with the traditional food and hospitality of Japan is a memorable and entertaining experience we will always enjoy. Please read on.

Having just spent 3 exhausting days walking around the busyness of Tokyo, I was looking forward to escaping to the hills and sampling a Japanese inn experience. I had researched on the internet the rules and etiquette of staying at a Ryokan, and came armed with plenty of printed matter to refer to and pass to my nervous friend. Compared to staying in a normal hotel, this was considerably more expensive but did include dinner. 

We approached the Ryokan with trepidation. Pam and I were not keen seafood eaters so we thought we would ask for no seafood with our dinner. The reception staff spoke little English, but they were adamant that we had to have seafood as it was in every course – no change.

This was early in the morning, so off we went sightseeing in Hakone and Lake Ashi area. We arrived back at 5pm and I was keen to have the Japanese bathing experience as I had missed out on my last trip to Japan, due to a full leg plaster from a skiing accident. Pam on the other hand was nervous and was determined she was going in her bathing togs.

We were escorted to our room.The tatami mats had a nice grassy odour which was quite pleasant.There were two large rooms, one with a table, chairs, tv and fridge. The Japanese room had tatami mat flooring, large coffee type table with chair backs for sitting on the floor, large wardrobe (futons and bedding inside),  fresh flowers, artistic wall hanging, rice paper sliding doors and overlooked a stunning mossy garden filled with beautiful shaped trees and shrubs. There was also a bathroom with bath and toilet.   A maid in kimono came in and made green tea and served it with a sweet bean cake and left us to ourselves before asking when we would like dinner.

I briefed Pam on her Ryokan instructions of bathing etiquette of which she was not keen, she downed a cointreau on ice and off we headed to the communal bath. The bathing crowd had just finished but luckily a few remained so we could follow what they did. It was large and spacious and there was a little basket each to keep your clothes. You then strip down to nothing and use the modesty towel (the size of a face cloth) to cover what is most important to you and head towards the bathing area.

There were two large indoor baths and an outside one with a garden around it. First you sit on a tiny wooden  stool in front of a mirror, so there is no modest way to sit there. There are plenty of soaps and scrubs and a water hose for each person and you must soap up your entire body and rinse it off before you step into the bath. We went to the outdoor bath which was lovely in the garden and so relaxing. After your bath, as a guest you must dress in the Yukuta robe and slippers that are provided, you are not supposed to wear your everyday clothes.  

Our dinner arrived with a lady dressed in a lavender kimono. She was extremely elegant and watching her move and present the food was an art form. I have worked in 5 star hotels as a chef, I have been in food competitions and won medals but I have never seen such beautifully presented and tasting food. We were amazed as dish after dish was placed onto the table in the tatami mat room. We both had identical dishes in gorgeous  bowls, plates, dishes and boxes. According to my Ryokan etiquette, the dishes represent the mountains and the sea and are garnished with leaves and flowers. Much emphasis is placed on how it looks and you would think that it would be all messed up after its delivery from the kitchen, but it all stayed and looked perfect.

I tried to decipher all the tastes and textures and enjoyed every moment. There was raw fish of which we both ate and enjoyed, considering we were not normally fish eaters. The tuna melted in the mouth. The maid returned after half an hour with more food in different dishes, made tea and told us to ring when we had finished. We were quite full and delighted with our seafood meal, the food was so healthy, and despite having plenty to eat, did not feel we had overeaten. We finished off with almond milk jelly with maple syrup and red grapefruit, a clean and refreshing finisher.

I really must say what a wonderful dinner it was! 

Then a male staff member and came in and made our beds, he lay out futons and special heavy pillows filled with grains and relaxing herbs. A light feather down quilt was placed on top and I could see the bed calling me. I had the greatest sleep as did Pam.

Breakfast is served from 8 am in your room. We didn't get to experience this as we had to be out the door early to catch a train to Kyoto.

The idea of staying at a Ryokan is relaxing fabulous food, relaxing, bathing in a hot spring bath, relaxing , viewing and walking in the gardens and did I forget to mention relaxing. On our next trip we will have plenty of time to enjoy the breakfast before leaving for our next destination.

I cant wait till the next time!